Ice Climbing Leadership Requirements

REVISED REQUIREMENTS AS OF FEB 2025


Know all skills for Top Rope Rock Climbing Leadership plus:
SOFT/TEACHING SKILLS
● Instruct participants as to proper attire for the outing
● Properly instruct basic ice climbing technique with an emphasis on safe,
efficient movement (kick like you / pick like you , or other preferred
memory device)
● Manage group dynamics safely (including position of belayers and group
relative to climbers and specific “splash zone”)
● Demonstrate attentiveness to condition of participants (body temp, hydration,
overall energy)
● Identify (both prior to and during trip) maximum acceptable group size given
conditions and climbing area
● Trips will have a maximum of five participants per one ice climbing leader
● Participate in hypothermia/cold weather training or be WFA/WFR certified
● Maintain an understanding that SUOC only ice climbs with top rope anchors. Ice
climbing without a top rope anchor presents too much inherent risk for the
participants and the club itself.
HARD/TECHNICAL SKILLS
● Know how to sharpen, adjust, and maintain ice tools and crampons
● Guide participants in sizing crampons to fit boots
● Determine the condition of ice via color, texture, auditory feedback, local
weather patterns, etc.
● Safely construct and check others’ constructed natural or bolted top rope
anchors
● Clean, maintain, explain proper use scenarios of ice screws
● Demonstrate and explain good ice screw placement for a toprope redirect or
anchor (evaluating ice quality, screw positioning, sun/temperature exposure,
screw to ice thickness ratio, why tying off screws is dangerous)